Discover India

NUBRA

The Forbidden Valley Opens its Doors

Between China and Pakistan lies the Nubra Valley, a little patch of Indian land. The Indian government has constructed a road up to Leh, the capital of Ladakh, thus opening up the few villages of the Nubra Valley and making it possible for the adventurous to take a plunge into this fragment of greenery, nestling between the Karakorams and the Himalayas.

Convoys like these are common
sight along Tanglung La

At the foot of the Karakoram range, this northern part of Ladakh is very close to the Siachen glacier, the largest and most closely guarded glacier in the world. Here, between the crevasses of this snowy giant, men have traced international lines that have become borders of tension, prohibiting visits to this place. The Siachen meets the Shayok in Ladakh and gives rise to a valley that is astoundingly green for this region where the landscape is generally of and mountains of the colour of the desert.

Reaching the Nubra Valley after a slow climb north of Leh, is a grandiose event. The Beacon Highway continues along the side of the mountain, tracing fine curves in an immensity of rock where, at around 4,600-4,800 metres of height, one comes upon specimens of alpine flora: carpets of moss dotted with pink and blue,edelweiss, gentians and wild mint . And higher up, ever higher up, is just the mountain alone, of ice and granite. This is Khardong La, the highest mountain pass in the world at 5,603 metres. Some mortals, sheltered and freezing, members of the Indian armed forces, look after the upkeep of the road while we view the gigantic doorway, this border between the domain of the Indus and the Nubra Valley.

In the 17th century, the Mughals reigned over North India and sought to expand their territory. They were stopped at Hundar by typhoid, the single invincible warrior of the time. Hundar ("old village") was the capital of the Nubra kingdom. Today, the old village is nothing more than a heap of rubble surmounted by a grey ruin. The bruised homeland of a dynasty that has been extinguished. It was situated on the white elephant cliff. The threat of Mughal and Tibetan invasion having been reduced,

Cultivable land like this is scarce in these rocky highlands

the population of Hundar now lives at the feet of the pachyderm, on the plains where the two entwined rivers flow.
Contrary to the villages along the Indus, the houses are not massed together here. There are farms in the midst of fields of rye and kitchen gardens. All kinds of vegetables and fruit trees are found here. Apple, walnut, apricot and even some rare almond trees are grown. Irrigation is easy and the soil is good. The paths run along high walls of greenery in which the predominant trees are the Kabuls, imported centuries ago from Afghanistan. They form protective walls against inquisitive eyes. In the Nubra villages the visitor does not therefore become directly the centre of interest as he would in the village square. It is he who must take the first step. And when he does, every door at which he knocks opens up to him treasures of Ladakhi hospitality.

Khardungla at 18300 feet is the highest road in the world

Caravans travelling towards Central Asia and Kashmir always made a halt at Nubra. At Panamik, they found a medicinal hot water spring and because the region has always been rich, they could get fresh supplies before confronting the Sasun and Karakoram passes. Naturally no convoy any longer utilizes this route, but near around Hundar we still find some living vestiges of the past. Around fifty or so dromedaries, natives of Kazakhstan

spend the summer in the forests of the valley and are used in winter to carry firewood. They sometimes come out of their shady pasture lands and are to be seen trailing around between Hundar and Diskit on a large sandbank, walking with suppleness on this soil and seeming to want to proceed further, to go out of the valley, and cross the pass to travel once again along the age old spice and silk route.
200 metres upwards of Diskit, the "administrative" village of the valley, the monastery watches the rivers meeting in confluence. You have to walk along a strong mountain stream on which small stone and wood structures have been built.

As you approach them, a light and powerful sound is heard: the sound of stone striking against stone. Within, a gentle light, muffled by the dust emitted by the rye being crushed. These are the mills of Nubra, its tsampa factories. This flour is the staple diet of all the inhabitants of the dry Himalayan region. There is an atmosphere of extraordinary calm within these little houses.
The gompa (monastery) of Diskit is perched on the rock overhanging the stream which is the source of the energy used by the mills. It overlooks an impressive cliff where the monks still move around every day to gather drinking water. The monastery is rich, full of tangkas (silk paintings) and above all of magnificent giant statues, effigies of the Buddha and old mural paintings in which can be noted a multitude of influences.

Freshly picked tomatoes

"The village of three rivers" faces Diskit, on the other side of the life-giving stream. This village is even more extensive than Hundar. Walking along the paths of Sumur ("3 rivers"), one feels the same impression of calmness, orderliness and total confidence in what nature has bestowed here: a rich soil that is easy to irrigate. The inhabitants numbering around 700, are mostly farmers. Sumur and its twin Taggar, just two kilometres away, is going through an exceptional experience. Stanzing Shash Ringpoche has just completed a retreat of 3 years, 3 months and 3 days, during which he devoted his entire time to meditation. For a few days, the whole population of the valley will come to greet him.
A member of the religious procession calls out, "KikiSoso." "Lhar gialo!" reply the thousand Ladakhis dressed in their traditional costumes to welcome the Ringpoche. The little palace of Taggar has remained closed for 3 years; today, there is a festive mood all around. The spiritual head sits down and chants by way of blessing a magnificent melody. Later, after a meal of delicious sweet rice mixed with almonds and dry raisins, the entire crowd will recite together the Pujas, sacred Buddhist texts.
It is the end of the day, the sun is playing with the mountain. The inhabitants of Nubra return to their respective villages using vehicles as diverse as they are strange. Songs and peals of laughter pave the road between Taggar and Sumur. By the side of the road a river flows gently. A woman is seated. Near her, in a wicker basket, a baby, its eyes wide open, eagerly watches the colourful men passing by, their faces bathed in peace. Near a spring with a crystalline sound, a child watches the people of Nubra pass by.

GETTNG THERE

HOW TO GET THERE:
Two government buses run per week between Leh-Diskit and Leh Panamik. However, it is distinctly preferable to be independent (hence to have a jeep) as in the valley itself there is practically no means of transport.
ACCOMODATION:
There are PWD guest houses in all the villages. They are managed by the government. At Panamik, Sumur, Hundar and Diskit, some hotels will open in the summer of 1996. It is already possible to find lodgings with the inhabitants.
WHEN TO GO THERE:
The road is open all the year round; summer is however the best period. The fields are then green and yellow and the weather is perfect.
In September, in the entire valley, the Nubra festival takes place, with folk dances and traditional music. The Diskit gompa festival takes place in January.
WHAT TO CARRY:
Nubra is very warm in summer; light clothing is good enough. However, for the mountain pass, carry along a pullover. Carry a sun protection cream and a powerful antimosquito balm; the mosquitos are particularly voracious at sunset.
PERMIT:
Foreigners require permits. Its duration is for one week for a minimum of 4 persons. It is easily obtained from travel agents or from the office of the Deputy Commissioner near the Polo Ground at Leh. There are no charges for the permit.