Discover India - North East

North East

Mystery, Magic, Beauty
Northeast India embodies the Latin maxim: Multum in Pravo. For nowhere else in the world can so much scenic, ethnic and cultural diversity befound in such a relatively small geographical area.

Traditionally
attired woman

Bordering on China, Tibet and Bangladesh, this region has absorbed many migrations, endured several invasions and seen much upheaval. Here lndo-Aryan, Tibeto-Burmese, Chinese and Mon-Khymer races have mingled with the original aborigines to create colour ful communities and different political systems amidst the fertile Brahmaputra and Surma valleys, the resource-rich eastern Himalayas and their foothills. Muslim settlers, British colonizers, tea planters and missionaries from America and Europe came and added to the growth, history and lifestyles. Because of internal disturbances and external pressures, this geopolitically vulnerable region was not open to outsiders during the British Raj.

It remained a restricted area even to lndian citizens. But selected tourism has been permitted since the early 80s by the government which recognizes Northeast lndia's tremendous potential for adventure tourism. Sustained economic development and poli tical stability are encouraging private investors to join the various State tourism corporations in creating the hotel and transport infrastructure essential for catering to growing domestic and international traffic. More airports, helepads and private domestic airlines have also made these States more accessible.

All the seven Northeastern States ASSAM, ARUNACHAL, NAGALAND, MANIPUR, TRIPURA, MEGHALAYA and MIZORAM - offer different attractions. Their language, customs, traditions, history, folklore, festivals and handicrafts differ as much as their people. Each ar ea can be explored through established routes but there are many rewarding experiences awaiting enterprising persons daring to go off the beaten track. Having lived there for nearly twenty years and travelling extensively as a writer, I suggest that each individual and group select destinations carefully to avoid excess and exhaustion. For the distances are formidable. Monsoon floods, landslideblocked mo untain roads and lack of adequate accommodation are some of the harsher realities of Northeast India.

Tribal priest,
Arunachal Pradesh

And yet, those who succeed in exploring this land of mystery, magic and spectacular beauty, where much of lndia's magnificent wildlife thrives, will come away enriched, feeling like Caesar when he first saw Cleopatra: "The half was not told to me."

Vividly coloured
headband in geometric
patterns are
special to this region
ASSAM'S capital, Guwahati, the ancient city of PragJyotish-Pur, is the logical entreport to the Northeast. Dominated by the mighty Brahmaputra river, this was the home of prehistoric Mother cults which merged with Tantric Hinduism. The Kamakhya shrine w as renowned even in Vedic and Puranic times. The Assam State Museum has a fine collection of classical Indian sculpture and interesting tribal artefacts. Beautiful handicrafts, handwoven moga and paat silk and colour-fast cotton household linen are sold in many shops and government emporiums. Visits to the famous Kaziranga Game Sanctuary, Jorhat, and Sibsagar can be combined. Jorhat, centre of the world's largest tea industry, also has the Toklai Tea Research Institute and the grandest planter mansion in which celebrities like Edward Vil, Churchill, Lord Wavell, Mountbatten, General Douglas Mac Arthur, General Stiliwell, Prince Philip, Professor Galbraith and Jawarharlal Nehru have all stayed.

It is now the Commissioner Upper Assam's office-cum residence. Nearby Majuli, the worid's largest river island, has a 15th century chatra or monastery containing medieval manuscripts, miniature paintings, wall frescoes and musical instruments. Its gohains or priests are renowned exponents of meditation, music, dance-drama and the martial arts-an Assamese version of China's famous Shao-lin.

Sibsagar was the seat of the Ahom kingdom which lasted from the 13th to the 18th century. Shiv temples set beside enormous rectangular tanks. Brick palaces with terra cotta friezes and royal vaults resembling Egyptian tombs. Airy rang ghar pavilions for viewing festivals and elephant fights. Stone bridges, water wheels and irrigation channels that still work.

At the spring festival, Mizoram

Quaint villages with elongated thatched houses surrounded by rustling coconut and betelnut palms, banana and bamboo groves, lemon and hibiscus trees. Phukhris or ponds full of fish and waterfowl. Shimmering rice fields dotted with white cattle egrets. Perfectly groomed women pounding spices or weaving mekhlas on scrupulously clean verandahs. Men with white dhotis and gamcha headbands riding bicycles and young boys driving black bu ffaloes home before dark. Water hyacinth everywhere.
The ARUNACHAL Himalayas are most easily accessible from Tezpur. This is a different world inhabited by colourful tribals and Bhutiya-Lepcha or Khampa Buddhists. Though theTenga valley is rather barren. Bomdila is a picturesque town with apple orchards, terraced farms, grazingyak and mountain goats, women with long plaited hair running carpet and shawl weaving industries and leather jacketed men in embroidered tweed caps and felt boots driving jeeps and pony pack trains up steep mountain trails. Rupa va lley is a veritable Shangrila surrounded by deep deodar, cypress and rhododendron forests. Tenzingao's tranquil Buddhist monastery and Occult College overiook snow ranges, streams and waterfalls surrounded by ferns and wild flowers. Here the monks weave Tibetan carpets, carve table chests and produce handpainted tangkas (silkwall hangings). The 11,000 feet high Selia Pass leads to the famous Tawang monastery on the Indo-China border. Its fluttering prayer flags, gompas (monasteries), steep lacquered p agoda roofs, carved and painted halls, corridors lined with cylindrical prayer wheels, ochre and russet robed lamas chanting sutras and pilgrims proffering white gauze scarves to the great idol of Lord Buddha, or lighting incense and butter oil lamps weav e a mesmerizing spell.

Assam has a wide variety of wildlife Dimapur, Kohima and Mokokchung are the main towns of NAGALAND, home of formidable warriors who were headhunters up to the beginning of this century. Kohima has a unique World Wa lI cemetery in what was the Deputy Commissioner's tennis court where the Jap anese advance was halted by a handful of lndian and british soldiers. Kohima also has a very interesting museum where Naga artefacts ranging from seashell jewellery to a ceremonial drum resembling a huge dugout war canoe with a Polynesian figurehead, sty lized painted waves and paddle-like drum strikers support their traditional belief in a seafaring past. Carved gateposts, totem poles, tasselled spears, splendid ivory and feather headdresses, ivory amulets, bronze human head pendants and elaborate war m asks are some of the other Naga treasures. Though the Nagas have modernized amazingly well in the shortest time span and fashionable youngsters sport the latest trends and live in comfortable modern homes, they have a great respect for their traditions.

Handwoven Naga shawls symbolize a specific tribe and the wearer's status in that society. Japanese tourists to the Northeast like visiting MANIPUR to see the Indian National Army Museum at Moirang, standing at the spot where Subhash Chandra Bose hoisted the Indian tricolor for the first time on Indian soil after leading the combined Japanese a nd INA troops into Kohima and lmphal during World War II. But Manipur has several other attractions. Archaeologists have recently discovered a Trojan-like treasure trove of gold burial masks, replica elephants, horses, armour, ornaments and ceremonial v essels here. This was an ancient kingdom renowned in the Mahabharat epic as the home of Princess Rukmani, chief consort of Lord Krishna.

Its capital, Imphal, stands in a beautiful wooded valley full of lakes and great grassy meadows. The dainty flower-bedecked maidens confidently riding bicycles to work and college are well known exponents of the classical Manipurdance. Manipuri men comb ine scholarship with the robust sport of sogol kangjei or polo played on sturdy hill ponies. The martial arts of India, China and Japan, too, are very popular here. TRIPURA is lndia's oldest Hindu kingdom where Dev Varma princes ruled in an unbroken line for 2300 years. A unique ivory seat supported by 8 unicorns was their throne. The old kingdom extended up to Arracan and one can see fine old historical monuments at Udaipur, Amarpur, Dharampur and Kalyanpur.

Blue Vanda

The rock carvings at the Unakoti Hills and Amarpur's larger than lifesize statues rival those of Ankor Vat. The vihar outside Agartala, the capital, has impressive 9th century brass Buddhas. This capital also has one of the loveliest State Assembly bu ildings (once the palace) in the country which reminds one instantly of Calcutta's Victoria Memorial. Quaint brick bungalows surrounded by bougainvillae hedges and bright cannas, golden laburnum trees lining the streets give Agartala's outskirts an attra ctive appearance. The markets sell the finest handicrafts in the Northeast.

Lady's Slipper Shillong is the hub of matrilineal MEGHALAYA where the Garo, Khasi and Jaintia tribes preserve their old social customs despite having been exposed to outside influences from the very beginning of their arrival in this area nearly 800 years ago. Meghalay a's beautiful rolling hills, pineforests, rivers and lakes provide excellent recreation facilities ranging from golf on an 18 hole course laid out 90 years ago on the St. Andrews model. Water sports at Bara Pani and Thardiaskien lakes, riding, trekking, swimming, birdwatching, dancing, dining out, shopping and betting on daily archery contests. There are interesting prehistoric caves, great waterfalls, sacred groves, stone monoliths and gardens to visit. Orchids and other exotic flowers, trees and shru bs thrive in Shillong's rather English climate. Tribal festivals are celebrated with colourful dances organized by Khasi Syiems or Rajas. The entire State celebrates Christmas with church services, carol singing and lively parties.

MIZORAM remains Northeast lndia's most inaccessible region because it can no longer be entered via Chittagong or Rangamati like during British times. The air links with Aizawl, the capital, remain uncertain throughout the wet season which lasts from Apri l to October. The long road journey from Shillong or Silchar is tedious. Slash and burn jhum cultivation has denuded the once abundant forests. Though the Mizos are a friendly, happy-go-lucky people devoted to music and good living, their rugged mounta in countryside attracts only anthropologists, sociologists, botanists and outdoor lovers who are capable of roughing it out in the wild blue mountains.

The missionary schools and hospitals in the interior, specially at Lunglei and Serkawr are very efficiently run by the Lushai-Kuki and Pai-Lakhar tribals often educated in the USA and England. The Mizo value system of Tlawmangaina or public service, stro ng sense of clan kinship, courage and generosity, irrepressible sense of humour, inborn courtesy and tremendous love for children are some of the admirable traits one discovers on closer acquaintance.
It would be pointless to pretend that travelling through the Northeast is easy. But those who do make the journey with open minds and eyes will definitely come away enriched with memories of splendid vistas and encounters with very special people who hav e certain human qualities becoming rare elsewhere.

The Ward Lake, Shilong