Kangra

Kangra is accepted as one of Himachal's most picturesque areas, thousands of streams flow through its enchanting valleys. The vegetation is a fascinating mix of tropical and sub-Himalayan varieties - climb higher and oaks and majestic Himalayan cedars ride the crest of every hill. And behind, rise the Dhauladhar ranges - stark white by day and soft romantic pink by dusk.

Half a dozen roads connect DHARMSALA which is the district headquarters of Kangra. It rises from 1,300 meters to a commanding 1,700 meters. The lower parts of town hold Yol Camp where Italian POWs were kept during World War II. With meandering paths, the War Memorial is just beyond. Built in a serene pine grove, it commemorates the war heroes of Himachal Pradesh.

Then there is the little library which is a veritable treasure trove on Kangra's rich heritage. And just above, is the kangra Art Museum whose exhibits include a gallery of Kangra's famous miniature paintings, assorted artifacts as well as the work of contemporary artists and photographers.
Nine kilometres above Dharmsala, the road winds its way past tall pines and deodars to McLEODGANJ. Named after Sir Allan McLeod, a one time Governor of the Punjab, it is now better known as the residence of His Holiness the Dalai Lama. The Tibetan Government-in-Exile has been based here for over three decades. The presence of a large tibetan community has given contemporary McLeodganj much of its character. The little bazaar is filled with a variety of Tibetan handicrafts and artifacts. It is possible to pick up a variety of books on Tibet, its religion and culture, as well as cassettes of Tibetan music. And every Sunday, like a weekly ritual, a flea market also appears. Not surprisingly, McLeodganj is often referred as the 'Little Lhasa'.
The heart of the settlement rests in the Namgyal Monastery that lies at the end of the spur. Its external walls are surrounded by rows of prayer wheels. Within it are larger than life images of the Buddha, Avalokiteshwara and Padmasambhava, while the walls are lined with thangkas. Even when prayers are on,visitors may enter the premises. The chants are conducted with drum beats and interspersed with resonating long horns and the clash of cymbals. Needless to add, the overall atmosphere has a mesmerizing effect on everyone.
At a short distance from the monastery, is the Tibetan library and medical centre. Further afield, at SIDHBARI eight kilometres from Dharmsala, is the Norbulinka institute which promotes Tibetan art and culture. Its unusual name stems from the Dalai Lama's summer residence in Tibet. Sidhbari also has the serenity of an ashram established by Swami Chinmaynand, a noted exponent of the Gita.

Within Dharmsaia's ambit are a variety of other attractions. Close at hand are the picturesque spots of KUNNAL PATHRI, DALL LAKE, TATWANI, KARERI LAKE and MACHCHRIAL, and the sighting post for a spectacular view UDEECHE - where, if the time of year is right, you can watch the migratory Gaddis marching towards the high passes with their flocks of sheep. Then there is the temple of Bhagsunag which, it is believed, dates back to the time of the Pandavas. And as far as festivals go, McLeodganj can offer more than just a taste of the exotic.

Every April, it hosts a ten day festival organized by the Tibetan Arts Institute, while December has the international Himalaya Festival to which all the countries of the Himalayan region sent their troupes.
Some of the old colonial flavour remains in the charming dressed stone church of St John in the Wilderness. Shaded by branches of age-old deodar trees, it has some exquisite stained glass windows. By its side is an elaborate memorial obelisk erected over the body of the British Viceroy Lord Elgin who died here in 1863. By the church, on slopes covered by soft green grass and a smattering of daises there is an old weli-tended graveyard.
From Dharmsala you can venture to the rock cut monolithic temples at MASRUR. In conception and ornamentation these are comparable to those at Ellora and Mahabalipuram. Soaked with history there are small towns like HARIPUR where the famous Kangra miniature paintings were born. There is NURPUR, named after the Mughal beauty Nur Jahan. There. is the 'new' town of Kangra and the temple of Vajreshwari Devi, which came into being when the old town was destroyed in the earthquake of 1905. Imagine the sanguine stories the stones tell at the forts of Kangra, Mangarh, Tira Sujanpur and Nadaun.

These tracts also cradle some of Hinduism's most sacred shrines. At JWALAMUKHI, the goddess is manifest as tiny flames of natural gas that burn through rock fissures. At CHINTPURNI, the devout come to leave their worries and ask for boons. By the banks of the river Beas there are the ruins of KALESWAR.
PALAMPUR is Kangra's other large settlement. It is 40 kilometres from Dharmsala and at a height of 1,250 meters and the 'landscape is somewhat different.

The slopes rise gently and much of the wilderness has been tamed but none of the beauty eroded. Here seems to be the quintessence of the Kangra valley' beauty. Like a long enchanting sentence, full of mellifluous phrases, it comes to a dramatic end as the Dhauladhar ranges suddenly spring forth out of level ground.
The place name, 'Palampur', comes from the local word 'pulum', or 'lots of water'. And water certainly abounds here. There are large rivulets (like the turbuient 300 meters wide Bundlakhud) small streams and tiny brooks. But whatever their size,they have one thing in common: they are full of life. They rush, they gush; they gurgle, they gossip, they flirt, they connive.
It is this bounty of water and the unique character of the climate-coot breezes laden with moisture from the snows and warm sunshine-that have given Palampur its tea gardens. Tea plantation which apart from all else has enhanced the beauty of the region was introduced by Dr. Jameson in 1849 and Kangra tea has been internationally acclaimed since 1883.
From Palampur you can venture to the monasteries of Bir and Tashilong and at the latter meet the head lama who has just entered his teens. At ANDRETTA, 13 kilometres away, is the gallery of the celebrated artist, Sobha Singh, and a pottery centre. The more intrepid can take one of the passes through the Dhauladhar ranges to Chamba. There are numerous temples around Palampur and the most famous is the exquisite one of Baijnath - a distance of 15 kilometres with an incredible range of unique carvings; it is said that here, King Ravana invoked Lord Shiva for the boon of immortality, an episode from the epic Ramayana. And you can also check out the hang gliding pad at BILLING.
And as far as accommodation in Kangra goes, there are plenty of hotels and rest houses. Himachal Tourism has a wide network and should you so choose, there are delightful 'heritage' properties at Alhilai and Pragpur; the former is run by Jammu and Kashmir's former ruling family, while the latter is a painstakingly restored country manor.

GETTING THERE KANGRA
The airport at Gaggal is 14 kilometres from Dharmsala and 37 kilometres from Palampur.
The broad gauge railway reaches Pathankot which is 85 kilometres from Dharmsala and 115 kilometres from Palampur. The meter gauge railway comes to Moranda, four kilometres from Palampur
Dharmsala is 526 kilometres from Delhi by road.